HOW TO BUILD A SHED PART 4-6

Page 4: Instructions 1

	1.	The FloorCut the Floor Frame members (skids and joists) from the 'Materials List', to the measurements shown in the 'Skid and Joist Outlay' plan. On level ground, make up the Floor Frame, also as per the 'Skid and Joist Outlay' plan. Cover the floor with 20mm (3/4) inch plywood, nailing a maximum of 200 (8") apart on all joists. Alternative flooring can be used such as 20mm (3/4") thick boards, or other suitable sheet.
	2.	The Wall FramesCut the Wall Frame members from the 'Materials List' to the measurements as shown in the 'Wall Frame and Stud Placement' and Cross Section Plans. Cut the longest members first. Make the Wall Frames up on even ground, referring to the 'Wall Frame and Stud Placement' Plan which shows the placement of the studs from a bird's eye-view. In this particular plan, the Studs are spaced at 600 [2ft] crs or o.c.(which means "at centers" or "on center"). This means the Studs are spaced apart 600 (2ft) from the center of one Stud, to the center of the adjoining Stud (where possible). Studs spaced at 600 [2ft] crs/o.c. are also placed appropriately to accommodate standard width 1200 [4ft] Cladding or Lining, either exterior and interior.
	3.	Wall Frame Nogging Fix four rows of Noggings, evenly spaced between all the Studs. This is best done while the Wall Frame is still laid on the ground. The Noggings give the exterior vertical Boards something substantial to be nailed to.
	4.	Lift and Fix the Wall Frames in Place Nail the Wall Frames together at the corners so the outside edges of the corner Studs are flush. Ensure the Bottom Plate is straight and that the outside edge is flush with the edge of the floor and then nail in place. Make the walls plumb (vertical) and temporarily brace on the inside of the walls.
	5.	The Roof BeamCut and fix the two Beam Supports on top of (and in the middle of) the front and rear Wall Frame Top Plates. The Roof Beam can then be cut to length and fixed in place on top of the two Beam Supports. Cut four end rafters as per the 'Rafter Detail' drawing and fix in place. Plumb and temporarily brace. Page 5: Instructions 2 6. The Roof Rafters Cut the remaining eight intermediate rafters (see 'Rafter Detail' drawing) and fix in place, four each side. Spacings are shown in 'The Roof Plan'. 7. Roof Noggings Measure and cut four rows of Noggings that will fit between the Rafters. Place the rows each side of the Side Wall's top plates (see Picture). This is so the exterior Boards and Battens will have a straight edge at the top to butt into. The same applies to any likely interior lining, should you choose to use it. 8. Roof Sheathing Cover the floor with 12mm (1/2) inch plywood, nailing a maximum of 200 (8") apart on all Rafters. Run the sheets from the Roof Beam to the ends of the Rafters. The sheets will need trimming. All joins running parallel with the Rafters, must be on a Rafter. Any necessary join running parallel with the Roof Beam, must be under a Purlin. 9. The Purlins Nail three rows of Purlins to each plane (side) of the roof, overhanging each side of the gables by 25mm (1") or the thickness of the exterior vertical Boards. Fix the top row about 75 (3") down from the apex (this measurement will depend upon the width of the Ridge Capping, as the Ridge Capping is fixed to the top purlin), the bottom row vertically flush with the end of the Rafter and another row in the middle. Nail the ends of the Roof Sheathing (from the underside) to the bottom purlins.   10. Fascia, Barge and Roof Underlay Nail the Barge Board to the end of the Purlins up along each rake of the gable and flush with the top of the Purlins. Join the Barge Boards at the apex (vertical cut) and cut the other (lower) end vertically, 175mm (6") past the rafter (lower) ends. Cut and fix the fascia Board in between the Barge Boards and to the Rafter ends. The top edge of the Fascia Board should be flush with the top of the bottom Purlin. Cover the roof with a self-supporting Underlay prior to the Corrugated Roofing Iron going on. Page 6: Instructions 3 11. The RoofFix the Roofing Iron to the Purlins with appropriate roofing nails/screws. Fix to the top and bottom Purlins at every second corrugation and fix to the intermediate Purlins at every 3rd or 4th corrugation. Fix through the high side of the corrugation. Overhang the roofing approx 65 (2 1/2") past the Fascia Board or 50 (2") past the back of the gutter.   12. Ridge Capping and Barge FlashingStandard Ridge Capping is about 130 (5") each side of the apex, but can vary and any size can be made to order. Have the Ridge Flashing in mind when positioning the top Purlin. Fix to the Purlin at every second corrugation. The Barge Flashing goes under the Ridge Capping at the top. Fix to each purlin (through two corrugations) and also to the barge board. 13. Cladding UnderlayA Cladding Underlay should envelop the exterior walls prior to the cladding being fixed.   14. Exterior Vertical BoardsCommence fixing the Boards to the Wall Frames, beginning from one corner. Cut the Boards long enough so that they will touch the underside of the Rafter at the top and run at least 50mm (2") below the floor. Nail the Boards to the Noggings with nails approximately 75mm (3") apart (including the nail that will be going through the Batten). Leave a gap between each board.   15. The BattensFix the Battens 75x25 (1x3) over each join. Preferably, the battens should have a groove each side of the join to stop water being drawn up by capillary action. Nail on the center line of the Batten, through the gap between the Boards and into the Noggings. Overlap on corners (see picture). 16. Done!Install the Door, install the Window and you're done!